YORKING Brake Pipe Repair Kit 3/16" Pipe Flaring Tool Kit 25FT Car Brake Line 10mm Replacement Cutter Bender Brake Line Repair Kit for Car Original Braking System

Product Information

firstly I told him on the day to go and get some more fluid and top it up before it empties the ABS module - he didn't. You can use the flare too to straighten the hose by tightening it in the part that grips and gradually moving along. Position it so that it can easily be pushed out as a single piece between the front wheels of the car as you release it from the rear subframe.

There are special colourants you can put in brake fluid to help you tell when you have flushed the system, but they are expensive and not really required. Here is the contents of the kit, there is a video on line that shows how easy it is to use, comes with full instructions. First locate the rear fitment of the brake pipe you will be replacing - this is where the brake pipe terminates in a fitting with the rubber brake hose that goes into your brake caliper. That brake pipe is the longest on the car and to run a new one in the same location I would have had to drop the fuel tank. It is true that in a few countries the use of "pure" copper brake lines is illegal, this is because if not properly installed they could work harden and eventually crack (this reasoning never made sense to me because steel lines rust and burst which surely is just as bad?

Copper is expensive, too soft and bendy to prefabricate and without extensive prefabrication manufacturing costs would rise. That said, bleeding brakes is simpler and quicker if all four wheels are off the ground and accessible, so for the reasons given in the recommendations section of this guide, if possible I'd always get the car completely off the ground anyway.

We supply customised brake accessories for all makes and models of car, together with a choice of brake fitting kits containing everything you need to repair or replace whichever part requires work. When you reach the junction box at the front, make the final bend before measuring and cutting the pipe (see photo to left). but copper grease has never caused me any issues unless I've accidentally allowed it to contaminate the pipes. Also make sure you have a male and female brake pipe end cap handy to seal the brake hose and pipe once it is removed.Either way, you'll be amazed how forgiving copper brake pipe is, it's easy to thread and bend into place, just don't overdo and make sure you use a brake pipe bender on the really sharp bends or the pipe will collapse and kink. Please include what you were doing when this page came up and the Cloudflare Ray ID found at the bottom of this page. This one was so badly made it necked the pipe just under the flare - actually caused a failure on my race car. Removing the old brake pipes should now be easy - the key is to try not to break them as they are full of fluid. The pipe rotted through where it ducks out of a plastic arch liner, and everything from the liner to the front of the car is sound.

There is enough clearance to get the brake pipe above the subframe (see photo to right) and the old pipes will bend quite a large amount without breaking.To use your end caps, just screw the appropriate end cap onto the brake pipe you've disconnected and it will seal it completely and easily.

This was a surprise for two reasons; (1) There had been no advisory on last year's MOT and (2) I had only just bought the car and had thoroughly checked it over only a few months previously. Am I right in thinking the caplier will accept either, as long as the nut is the right type for the flare? Take the car for a drive, first gently test your brakes and then choose somewhere safe and try an emergency stop.However, if my mate was the sort to keep driving after the brake light came on and ignored advice to at least top it up, I wouldn’t be doing a temporary fix. The "correct" way of lubricating brake fitments is with brake fluid (never anything else because of contamination).